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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.